My mind was elsewhere as the sharp knife in my hands surgically removed the seeds from a large bunch of putative “seedless” grapes. I was reflecting on whether Beulah’s response to her mistress Mae West’s request for a peeled grape would have been the same as mine and if “Fuck off and peel your own grapes” would have found its rightful place in the trove of great Hollywood quotes but, frankly, I didn’t give a damn as before me lay a mountain of grapes still to climb, an unplanned ascent to which I had been unwittingly led by the nose. It seemed but a short time ago since I had returned home, flushed with pride at the thriftiness of my shopping, a senseless oxymoron to my former self, and was proudly offering up a heavy bunch of pale green grapes to my lady wife with the intention of eliciting from her a whoop of excitement by relating to her the pittance that I had parted with to bring home such a luxury, but which vainglorious moment was denied me by her smooth exit from the kitchen with an over the shoulder smile and a mouthed “grape tart”. Within the term “thrifty shopping” there are several meanings and one of them dictates that the ingredients thriftily purchased should be those from which a set of predetermined dishes can be prepared and this being the case, apart from grapes, those ingredients needed for the creation of a successful grape tart were signally absent. Occasionally good fortune goes to the wrong address and I most certainly had not heard the door bell nor had I noticed any other indication of his presence until I opened the fridge door. Was one to be glancing at a list of ingredients for crème patissière the first of those to appear on that list would be 3 separated egg yolks and those 3 separated yolks were there, sitting in a white cup in the chilled white interior, still slightly quivering from having just been placed by the invisible hand of good fortune who had also had the foresight to provide frozen puff pastry and, in a cupboard nearby, some good vanilla but, in the way that good fortune is never quite good enough, had forgotten the essence of crème patissière: full cream milk. Most milk in France is not real let alone full cream, it is UHT and for most of the time I neither care nor, indeed, notice. On the other hand the French are allowed to have lait cru, raw unpasteurised full cream milk which would cause health and safety, on the other side of La Manche, to head in droves for high cliffs from which to hurl themselves onto the rocks of worthiness. Meanwhile, far from Lemmings Leap, in a nearby village, there is a shed within which is a 24/7 dispenser of fresh, chilled lait cru, the essential building block for any form of worthwhile custard by which I mean the smooth, pale pouring sauce called creme anglaise or the dense crème patissière that enhances so many toothsome examples of the patissière’s art.
I should make it clear I have never cared for “custard”, by which I mean that overly sweet, bright yellow condiment of the English nursery, so I’m loathe to accept that crème patissière, which I like very much, is a member of that benighted family; but, as we can’t choose our family, all is forgiven.
Delicious! Did you actually peel and depit all the grapes? Also where did you find jelly in France or did you make your own?
I had to depit them all but not peel them…..and as luck would have it, good fortune had also left a jar of redcurrant jelly in the back of a cupboard. ….
Oh, you have a milk dispenser, and raw milk at that. I’m jealous. We have eggs nearby and bread, if I’m willing to drive maybe 20 minutes. We should figure out who to petition, so that the local suppliers cluster their vending machines. After all, how often do you buy one of those items without also wanting at least one of the other two? Anyway, what a lucky wife to reject a gift and have it offered again, in improved form. Very nice.
It’s the first time I’ve used the milk dispenser and I was not disappointed….such a difference. …oddly enough we have a bread dispenser nearby and my neighbour is the best egg dispenser in the area:)
Lucky you. I’m allergic to the Leclercs and all and besides, I have yet to adjust to the short operating hours over here. Funny how quickly I adjusted to the two-half-days at the town market, though. Even so I live in hope that the Saturday market will become an all-day one, at least in summer. As it is, I eat a lot of eggs.
I remember milk machines back in the 60s, with their strange waxed card carton and a metal sealing strip at the top. Raw milk is coming back – it’s available here from the farm and at farmers markets. There are about 3 dairy stalls at mine (Islington) selling real milk, which means it’s available all over London.
I think there’s a cherry pitter that does grapes 😉
I’m amazed that H&E allow raw milk…amazed and delighted. I’ve got a feeling that a pitter would really fuck up a grape…the cutting in half and manual pip removal produces a more elegant grape for the tart…:)
It’s been creeping back slowly. There was a Radio 4 Food Programme about it a few years ago, which is probably available online. It’s even relatively cheap at £2 for a 2 pint container.
Good to hear… not a bad price either. 1€ a litre here..
They were selling it mail order here to start with – I think it cost about £5!
Very rich milk indeed..
Unfair. My lady in the markets has stopped selling lait cru. I think she was nobbled by one inspector or another. And here you just wander along to this architectural curio and get the good stuff whenever you like. Fortune has smiled upon you.
…it’s been a long time coming….fortune’s smile that is…:)
Had to have an evening chat with Mr Google re lait cru as the laws here differ from state to state. It seems it is legal to drink one’s own but a crime to sell in most places: England these days seems to have hundreds of outlets against our couple . . . interesting comparison that Australia’s children are the most allergy-ridden in the world next to stated ‘proof’ that those who have access to raw milk have almost none . . . . thanks for more ‘homework’ of the kind I like 🙂 ! Ooh, and I do like what you did with those grapes also . . . . .
many thanks…. The amount of people suffering from allergies must be close to the amount of people with fucked up political views😀
Like Mad we can also but lait cru in the weekly Farmer’s Market and in Spain I just have to ask a neighbour…although it would be goat’s milk. Beautiful looking tart. I’m not crazy about grapes unless they’ve been magically turned into wine but I think I’d enjoy this.
If I had any sense I would walk the 100 metres to Patrick’s farm with an empty and ask him to fill it up …..my other neighbours do that but I chose to drive 4kms there and 4kms back to pay !€ per litre…smart:)
As a little girl, my friend was allowed to help with pitting grapes for a tart. When her mother’s friends were enjoying the finished article, one of them complimented her on how neatly she had done the job and asked her how she had managed. “Oh, I sucked them out” was her reply.
I used to make a wicked Alsatian Weincremetorte with fresh grapes – and a million calories.
Brilliant story…… sucking out the pips sounds good to me😀
Methinks I will be laughing for the rest of the day – thanks for the memory!
Totally agree with you on “custard”, that is too sweet and zero taste. I do the same like your brilliant recipe. Well that grape tart is one of the “only One”. Enjoy the autumn
…cheers, Cornelia….after an “iffy” summer we’re enjoying a wonderfully warm/hot Autumn…a favourite time of year. Enjoy the tart:)
Same here, in California Roger, I still go swimming in the ocean and it’s heavenly.
So was your lady wife calling you a grape tart or requesting a grape tart? 🙂 If my husband had said that over my shoulder I would definitely decide it was a request! I admit I do love custard but the crème patissière wins every time.
I wish she’d stop calling me a grape tart….but what can I do:)
😄