For those of us who live in Northern Europe the month of August has, by dint of coincidental school holidays, become the accepted time of the year for the family seaside vacation which is unfortunate as, in my memory, those thirty one days never fail to produce a disproportionate amount of rain. An afternoon spent in the unwelcome, if expected, yet still incongruous semi darkness that only an unseasonable August rain storm can bring, was made more than bearable for me by the good company of both Elizabeth David and Somerset Maugham.
A day earlier I had optimistically made some very seasonal, both in colour and flavour, peperonata with the intention of enjoying it al fresco but because, as Samuel Taylor Coleridge said “..summer had set in with its usual severity” this turn of events precluded any thoughts of outside eating. Nevertheless, the large quantity of peperonata remained uneaten and needed to be adapted to the current conditions. I had been reading some Somerset Maugham short stories, set in the exotic South Seas of the early 20th century, with the hope of instilling some sort of warmth into my soul, if not my body, which plan was succeeding to a certain extent save for the pangs of lunchtime hunger. Mr. Maugham’s wanderlust had led my mind to Tahiti but my palate had set off, independently, to the Basque region where it ran into Elizabeth who recommended that I moved, most ricky ticky, into the kitchen where together we, her in book form and me in an apron, would transform the out of favour peperonata, with the aid of some eggs, into a bubbling pan of brilliantly colourful piperade.
Piperade, when made according to Ms.David’s recipe, does not include the multicoloured array of peppers which I had included in my peperonata, which was itself untrue to its own genuine recipe.The truth of the matter was that I had a bunch of coloured peppers, some good tomatoes, garlic and onions and I stewed them together in olive oil. This is a good dish but it has no name. Elizabeth David is nothing if not precise. She may have led the most wondrously enviable life of adventure and debauch but, when it comes to correctness in the kitchen, she is not to be fucked with.
Précis of Elizabeth David’s recipe from “French Provincial Cooking”
Because this concoction of eggs and peppers from the Basque country is one the most widely travelled of all French regional dishes, it is also one that is frequently misinterpreted. Here is a very simple recipe.
I (that’s me, not Ms. David) will not include quantities as each of us will make it for different amounts of people with differing appetites.In her book, Ms.David recommends a proportion of I onion,6 green peppers, 2lbs tomatoes and 4 beaten eggs.
Heat some goose fat or olive oil in a pan and in it gently soften a finely sliced onion until it starts to turn yellow. Having deseeded and sliced your peppers into strips add them to the pan and cook, occasionally stirring, for about 15 minutes before adding your roughly chopped tomatoes, which I (me) do not bother to skin.Season with some finely chopped garlic, sea salt and ground black pepper and cook until the tomatoes are nearly a pulp. To this mixture add some well beaten eggs and stir them through until they resemble scrambled eggs. I (me) prefer to take the pan from the heat when the eggs are still creamy and put some of the mixture onto thick slices of buttered country bread. Ms.David suggests serving the mixture with a slice or two of grilled or fried ham, such as jambon de Bayonne, on the side or, indeed, just surround the egg mixture with some freshly made croutons of fried bread.
This dish has never disappointed me and it is very adaptable. A spoonful or two of the mixture put into an omelette creates Omellete Basquaise ( “French Provincial Cooking”)
Roger, the color, the flavor, the smell and the taste; you’ve got all of my senses aroused, as I laze about this fine, New England, Sunday morn. I must arise now and go down to the kitchen and stir things up a bit.
God, I wish we had a bright Sunday morn in the Vendee. The wind’s so strong I only get an internet connection every now and then…very envious:)
Sounds like you made the best of it when the world decided to throw a wrench in your plans, and it all looks incredibly beautiful too.
Such a good dish…and it made me forget the rain:)
Truly scrumptious, even on a wet and windy day…love your comment re ED’s wild life, but not to be f****d with in the kitchen! Spot on!
I think she could be a bit severe….o-o-o-o-h, Matron:)
😀 😀
Seems pretty wonderful to be cozied up in a place with wind and rain blowing and pouring outside, and to be inside with Somerset, and Ms. David….a menage a trois? hot, hot, hot. And of course, the piperade.
I just hope that rain keeps doing its job:)
I’ll have to try this with all the heirloom tomatoes I have getting vine-ripen on my terrace! We are about to take our family seaside vacation at the end of the month 🙂 Going to Santa Susanna & Barcelona, Spain for a week!
The good words were “at the end of the month”…:)
Reblogged this on Westminster Enterprise Centre and commented:
lookin 2 good to eat!
I still had to eat it:)
Ha ha – I believe Elizabeth David would literally bite people’s heads off when fucked with!
You picked a good August day for rain – there were cows and sheep along with cats and dogs here this morning! It was still humid enough that my waterproofs were almost as damp on the inside as the outside, as I cycled to Islington Farmers’ Market 🙂
I watch it happen each year here. As the optimistic August holiday makers arrive, so does the rain:)
Could we do this on the boat? It would be a definite prove meant over what we’ve had the last few days.
You most definitely could do this on the boat…easy and delicious..:)
Fantastic – just what I needed to see.
It was 24.5 degrees C, sunny and 95 percent humidity here when I got up this morning!
Ooops – I meant 29.5 degrees C………..
That is hot …..just how I imagine the Keys to be..
God bless Ms David and her recipe! And I adore your copper pan – beautiful
Cheers and God bless Ms.David…Amen:)
Busy Monday morning notwithstanding you have tempted me to run my searching fingers along my bookshelves in search of both the particular David and certainly the Maugham I have not enjoyed for years . . .and the photos certainly demand one not to wait for summer’s bounty but make a pan of piperade with much travelled paler imitations of the summer exhibition on your plate!!
Good books are excellent company in crap weather….or at any time:)
Food colouring the way nature intended it… no FD&C’s or numbers required.
That’s right….I’d forgotten about food colouring..
That’s exactly what I have in my fridge to make it as a wonderful breakfast, lunch……. Colors do matter to me as a photographer and as “passionatist” , uhh new word creation, of eye pleasing food.
Enjoy 🙂
Lovely
🙂
What a wonderful story and photos to go along with….I so enjoy your posts.
Thank you very much , Teresa….I’m delighted to hear it:)
We’re actually lucking out here in New England this summer. The past few years it would get really stormy and rainy in August. And these dishes would be perfect for that weather.
This August is being really weird here…you don’t know what it’s going to do. We just spent the week in the South that was baking hot so we’re quite pleased to get back to “changeable”:)
This reminds me of one of my husband’s favorite dishes, Italian peppers and eggs…although yours will be more savory because of your ingredients. I know it must have been good…that and the good company. 😀
I like the idea of Italian peppers and eggs….tell me more..
You have put “Cakes and Ale” in my mind. I must re-read. A truly masterful tome.
Well reminded. I must take a second look at that too:)
Amazing. This is so beautiful. I usually agree with Coleridge, but I never view summer as severe, even when severe whether strikes. 🙂
I think Coleridge had a few other influences on his mind apart from the weather:)
This is perfect – in Ireland, summer so often fails to live up to our expectations weather-wise, but this recipe seems to toe the line perfectly between cosy and comforting, yet bursting with freshness.
August seems to be the worst month as so many people depend on it being good as it’s the only opportunity for a summer holiday…that’s life, I guess:)
great photos! I know I’m hungry 😀
I’m glad to hear it:)
Roger, the colours and ideas are almost overwhelming. I’m resolving to try one of these recipes in the next week!
That’s very flattering….cheers, Kate.
I love that this recipe can be easily altered to feed a couple or a crowd. Looks delicious!
It works great for a crowd…a good green salad, plenty of bread and wine and you’re fixed:)
It’s exactly like Turkish menemen, which I can eat for breakfast, lunch, and dinner with some chorizo added. It now adds one more complication regarding the origin of the dish. Hmm…anyway, I have very fond memories of Basque cuisine in San Sebastian. Love your photos. Sorry I can’t stop complimenting because I like them.
Many thanks for the compliments….and San Sebastian, such a wonderful place with great restaurants:)