Present imperfect may be incorrect as a tense but it is flawless as a sentiment when speaking of food that has been conceived to tempt by the senses of smell and taste, rather than to lure admirers by artful cosmetics . Contrived artifice tastes best when displayed behind glass but is found wanting when compared with the sensuality of the warm scent emanating from the butter and lard pastry case, containing thick spears of melting green asparagus set in Parmesan flavoured custard, as it is taken from a hot oven.
Falling for the made up tart behind the plate glass, understandable as it may be, is to court disappointment and disillusionment. However artisan in spirit and skill may be the creator, the numbing truth is that it was not made with you in mind. It was not made with anyone in mind: it was made with money in mind. I feel the same about fine dining which I place on the same soulless plane as very expensive whores. There is, and has always been, a market for both but the majority of that market is as undiscerning as it is well heeled. Discernment is not in the remit of such suppliers, only the artifice to create the illusion of discernment in the minds of the wallets that they are emptying . For me, only the warmest bespoke tart will do, even if the extremities have been knocked about a bit.