A spoonful of outrageous sensuality, colour and texture which, for me, reduces the artfully minimalist confections of the Noma-Bulli school to joyless tours de main. Maybe I have missed the point but I have never found the unduly careful arrangement of food on a plate to be impressive or, more importantly, mouth watering. Even more stultifying is the cant that goes with it. Luckily there are enough admirers of the Emperor’s new clothes to keep the purveyors of this confidence trick in real buttons and bows. We, as a society, have reached such a disgraceful disparity in human comfort that it is hard not to believe that we are riding for a fall.