I have just noticed that Tennessee produces some fine goat cheeses which leads me to surmise that it was Dolly’s original intention to sing her about her goat rather than the unfortunate fashion choice of her mother which resulted in young Dolly sporting a coat of coloured rags thus having the piss mercilessly taken out of her by her white trash peers. Come to think of it, she might have had as much trouble being the owner of a multicoloured goat as Tennessee, in the 50’s, was no stranger to colour prejudice – white coat or white goat would have been the safe options but her mother threw Dolly in at the deep end. Dolly aside, this little goat cheese is from Provence and is called Roves des Garrigues. La Garrigue is the scrub land in the Midi where the goats, from whose milk this cheese is created, graze and which is filled with thyme, lavender and rosemary, the aromas of which give the cheese a natural, perfumed taste. Eaten with good bread and a glass of wine, this is amongst the best of simple foods. Grilled red peppers, preserved in oil, go very well with this cheese as does olive oil and a sprinkling of fresh thyme leaves.