Frazzled brains and frazzled eggs. I dimly remember this advice being offered to me by the genial proprietor of the “greasy spoon”, in deepest Covent Garden, circa 1980, as I stared blankly through eyes weakened by drink and drugs at the chalkboard offering different pairings of very fried things. Thumbscrews are very nice, if you like them, according to the followers of Baroness Masoch as are fish lips and ducks’ feet to the mangetout Chinese. The point is that I was beyond advice. Time has passed and I no longer journey to the land beyond advice. When my visa ran out they handed me back my palate and brain, making menu selection and driving much, much easier. I have no remembrance of what I selected that morning but I hope it was as good as this simple dish of grilled bread, butter fried tomatoes and crisp prosciutto.