The sun has resolutely decided to keep shining, steadfastly ignoring any rumours of winter, which is a good thing if you are a food photographer working with daylight. One of the bad things for such a photographer would be a lack of windows or, worse, a lack of windows facing in good directions. For example – a brick wall or another house directly in front of your window would definitely be in a bad direction. Daylight is at a premium in winter, and it also has a habit of shifting around with the sun’s movements. To take advantage of this natural phenomenon wheels have been attached to our recently distressed table. I should add that these wheels, in the words of the late Kenny Everett, are in the “best possible taste”. Today I took a smoked salmon tart for a ride on it, criss crossing our tiny establishment at will, searching for a good “bit of light” which I think I found. This is an easy dish to make. Melt some sweet onions in butter for a good 30 minutes and then let them cool. Stir them into lots of creme fraiche ( I added a couple of spoonfuls of horseradish cream) and add chopped smoked salmon and fresh dill. Put the mixture on a sheet of cooled puff pastry that you made earlier or in a shortcrust tart case like this one. Add more smoked salmon, add some more sprigs of dill, black pepper, a squeeze of lemon and eat with a green salad and several glasses of a chilled and fruity white wine. This can be made with raw salmon as an option, which is very good indeed.