This simple dish is amongst the classic bistrot entrées and is one of my favourites. The essential quality of simple food like this is the quality of the ingredients. Mme Roustand, my nearby source of organic eggs, had new chickens which were laying very small eggs. Trying to substitute several small eggs for large eggs in a recipe is not a route I recommend – I recently made a blackberry cake that was as heavy as lead due to this inaccuracy. However, these good eggs were perfect for egg mayonnaise made with home made mayonnaise, good anchovies in oil and capers.
Strangely enough, for someone who advocates such a dish, I really don’t like eating the white of eggs. The exceptions to this phobia are egg mayonnaise and a good fried egg. Boiled eggs on their own remain anathema, which is annoying as I truly dislike picky eaters.
I’m going oyster buying and eating on the nearby coast today. Oysters are among my favourite foods, which harks back to the strangeness of my dislike of egg white. There is definitely a similarity in texture but the block remains. I must have run into some truly bad eggs in my life.