How Elizabeth David made me love salmon

Another day, another birthday. The thing that I am celebrating today, aside my continued survival, is the perspicacity of writers such as Elizabeth David and M.F.K.Fisher. Each time I delve into “French Provincial Cookery” or “How to Cook a Wolf” I find something of extraordinary quality that I have not noticed before, even though I must have leaved through the pages hundreds of times before. There was a time when I would have been attracted by the unusual or the fanciful. Two, in fact three, dishes have recently caught my attention. The first is this wonderfully simple Salmon Steaks in Loire wine from Elizabeth David. Butter, salt, black pepper and white wine amalgamate in a few minutes to create an ambrosial sauce on just cooked salmon steaks. Salmon has never been amongst my favourite fish (pace Street Kitchen, I can see yours is in another dimension) probably on account of endless flat, cold, dead salmon covered in cucumber like Dame Edna Everidge’s eyes in her beauty treatments. This simple alchemy of butter, salmon and Sancerre is an amazing revelation. The second is her recounting of La Mere Poulard’s revelation, by letter to a famous Parisian restauranteur, of the secret for the success of  her world famous omelettes. The secret was eggs and butter. The third is something that I hope will be a piece of magic from M.F.K.Fisher called “Hang Town Fry”. I haven’t tried it yet but I have high hopes as it involves eggs and oysters. Oh shit, you cry. Wait and see. As Frank McCourt said “It’s lovely to know that the world can’t interfere with the inside of your head”

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About Food,Photography & France

Photographer and film maker living in France. After a long career in London, my wife and I have settled in the Vendee, where we run residential digital photography courses with a strong gastronomic flavour.
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One Response to How Elizabeth David made me love salmon

  1. prudence Bury-Fuchs says:

    Have a great birthday!

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