I love everything about this dessert. The Kirsch, and the ample sprinkling of icing sugar, transform already delicious pineapple into a heady mouthful. This is simple bistrot food at its best. Tasting good and looking good at the same time, without adornment, are marks of a thoroughbred dish. There is a light hearted rule that, when choosing a red wine from Burgundy, the longer the name the better will be the wine. The reverse may be true of restaurant menus. The shorter the name, and the clearer the description, the better. This concept is as watertight as a colander, but the idea is clear. I have not yet decided on what meat or fish to cook before we eat the pineapple. I have made leeks vinaigrette as an entrée – maybe that’s it. Just the wine with a long name is missing.